If I'm reading this right, you're hitting the ball with an open face? Meaning, it's just starting right and staying on that line for the most part, rather than starting straight or right and then fading/slicing further right.
If that's the case, the only clubhead change that I think would help would be irons with more offset, but the Burner 2.0's are game-improvement irons that already have a decent amount of offset. A lot of factors could cause you to leave the club face open, but I'd start by tinkering with grip and/or setup if you're confident with your swing mechanics.
A stronger grip should help you close the clubface. By stronger, I don't mean squeeze the club harder, I mean turning your left hand (for a right handed golfer) to the right. You can google images of a strong golf grip, but you're basically just gripping the club with more of the knuckles on your left hand visible at address. Don't twist the club face at address, just set it down behind the ball like normal and then grip with the stronger grip.
As for setup, it's a little more dependent on the lateral movement in your swing and your foot position. Keeping all else constant, try bumping the ball a tad forward in your stance; it might give you the extra time you need to close the club face. Fair warning, this can negatively effect impact and ball flight if you overdue it or if you have a steep swing.
If you're slicing the ball, consider the above options as well as a closed stance. It can be tricky to set up consistently with a closed stance (pointed right of target) because the tendency is to shift your shoulders open or closed to compensate. The key thought at address should be shoulders square to the target with feet closed. This setup is what pros tend to do when they want to hit a draw; then they move the ball up/back in their stance depending on how big of a draw they want to hit. Alternatively, to hit a fade, they'd open their stance. The whole idea behind this is that a closed stance should promote an in-to-out swing, whereas an open stance would promote an out-to-in swing.
Sorry for the long post. Additionally, there are a couple possibilities with your driver distance issue. One is micro-cracks possibly along the weld line where the face meets the crown and sole. It's not common but not unheard of either. If you've notice a different sound than normal, this is usually the tell-tale cause. The other possibility is just that you're not making contact with the center of the club face. This one is easy to diagnose; just get some impact tape or spray some powder (foot powder works well) on the face, hit some balls, and see where you're making impact.